The vegans were coming! My daughter and her family are very COVID cautious. They live in Northern California, but several weeks ago she and her family drove down to see us. A visit at a distance meant that they stayed in a hotel and shared outdoor meals at our house.
My daughter and granddaughter are vegetarians; I see compliance with those ingredient restrictions as easy-peasy. But my son-in-law Matthew, a nurse and helpful soul in so many ways, is vegan. As I planned the menus, it dawned on me how much I generally use eggs, cheese and butter, forbidden components in vegan dishes.
Among the things that the grocery shopping challenges of this pandemic have taught me are the successful possibilities of substitutions and/or omissions of ingredients in recipes. Vegetarian fried rice is a good example, especially one with a Mexican motif. It’s traditional to include a version of scrambled eggs in the mix, but with a couple of tasty additions that include avocado, tortilla chips and hot sauce, no one missed the richness that the eggs provide. A light sprinkle of grated pepper-jack cheese is a nice finish, but no one seemed to miss it.
A wide variety of additional veggies can be added to the rice-based dish, depending on what you have on hand. Small frozen peas can be included when the beans are added to the concoction and then cooked until heated through. Also try chopped carrots or celery or a handful of finely diced zucchini.
Asian-themed dumplings are an ideal way to enjoy vegetables. To make them vegan, the first step is to find store-bought wrappers that exclude eggs. I found vegan wrappers at Whole Foods Market, but there are other online sources. The base of the filling is the tempting sweetness of roasted butternut squash. It’s smushed with fresh broccoli and miso, ginger and garlic, plus a splash of rice vinegar.
As with many variations on the dumpling theme, it’s the dipping sauce that adds the irresistible oomph. In this case, a mix of the usual soy sauce, red chili and green onions, is spiked with sesame seeds and English mustard or Dijon mustard, as well as an optional squeeze of lime juice. Yum
I love the taste and texture of my No-Noodle Chinese Chicken Salad. Traditionally deep-fried rice stick noodles or strips of wonton skins are included in Chinese Chicken Salad. Leave them out and the peanut and ginger spiked dressing makes the vegetable mix downright irresistible.
The dressing teams with the alluring crunch of the raw ingredients: shredded red and green cabbage, romaine, carrots and cucumbers. Generally, I add bite-sized pieces of roasted chicken, but of course for a vegan version, it’s excluded. If desired, cubes of firm tofu can be sauteed, cooled and added to the mix.
No evidence of sacrifice or taste-bud suffering was evident in these vegan dishes. In fact, after four days of adhering to a vegan regimen, I’m not sure my meat-loving husband even noticed. Bless his little heart.
Vegan Veg and Black Bean Fried Rice
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more if needed
2 cups sliced cremini mushrooms
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup sliced green onions, plus more sliced green stalks for garnish
1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves, plus 1/4 cup chopped leaves, see cook’s notes
1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, chopped
1 to 2 tablespoons hot sauce, such as Frank’s RedHot or Sriracha, plus more for serving
3 cups cooked long-grained white rice (day-old rice is best)
1 (15.5-ounce) can black beans, drained, rinsed
Garnishes: diced or sliced avocado, tortilla chips, hot sauce for passing at the table
Cook’s notes: If you don’t have cilantro, substitute fresh parsley. Other (drained and rinsed) beans, such as pinto beans, cannellini beans or garbanzo beans can be substituted for the black beans.
PROCEDURE
1. Place 3 tablespoons of oil in large deep skillet (preferably nonstick) on high heat. Add mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 7 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon oil, green onions, cilantro stems and bell pepper; season with salt and pepper. Cook until soft, about 5 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Stir in hot sauce and cooked-cooled rice.
2. Spread out mixture and let cook, undisturbed, until underside crisps slightly about 5 to 6 minutes (if needed because skillet is dry, drizzle a little oil around edge of skillet). Using a spatula, flip portions of mixture over to crisp other side, letting it cook undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes. Add beans and toss; cook to heat up beans, about 1 minute. Fold in cilantro leaves. Taste and adjust seasoning.
3. Garnish with avocado slices, tortilla chips and sliced green onion stalks. Provide hot sauce for those who prefer a spicier dish.
No-Noodle No-Chicken Chinese Salad with Peanut and Ginger Dressing
Yield: 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
Dressing:
1/3 cup rice vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons agave syrup or sugar
3/4 teaspoon Dijon Mustard
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup peanut oil
Salad:
1/2 head green cabbage, cored, cut into 1/4-inch wide crosswise slices
1/4 head red cabbage, cored, cut into 1/4-inch wide crosswise slices
1 heart of romaine lettuce, cut into 1/4-inch side crosswise slices
1 large carrot, peeled, cut into 1-inch long matchsticks
2 Persian (baby) cucumber or 1/2 English (hothouse) cucumber, cut into thin slices
1/3 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
2 green onions, cut into 1/4-inch thick diagonal slices, include dark green stalks
1/4 cup chopped roasted peanuts
Garnish: 3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, see cook’s notes
Cook’s notes: To toast sesame seeds place in small skillet over medium-high heat. Shake handle to redistribute seeds as they toast to light brown. Watch carefully because they burn easily. Cool.
PROCEDURE
1. In small bowl or 4-cup glass measuring cup with handle, combine vinegar, ginger, soy sauce, agave or sugar, mustard and salt. Stir to combine with fork or whisk. Stir or whisk in oil.
2. In large bowl, toss cabbages, romaine, carrot, cucumbers, cilantro, green onions and peanuts. Stir dressing and pour over salad; toss. Divide between plates and top with toasted sesame seeds.
Vegan Steamed Dumplings
Yield: About 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 pound butternut squash
Olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 1/2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled, cut into 3 or 4 pieces
3 ounces fresh broccoli florets
1 teaspoon red miso paste
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
24 (4-inch square) vegan wonton wrappers
1/2 fresh red chili, minced
2 green onions, white and light green portion minced, dark green stalks saved for garnish
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1/2 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce
3/4 teaspoon English mustard or Dijon mustard
Garnish: 1 lime, cut into quarters
PROCEDURE
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Quarter the squash lengthwise; remove seeds and membranes. On a rimmed baking sheet toss with 1 to 2 tablespoons oil; season with salt and pepper. Roast until soft and golden, about 1 hour. Cool. Scoop squash flesh from skin; discard skin.
2. Process garlic and 3/4-inch ginger in food processor until chopped. Add broccoli, miso and vinegar; pulse until finely chopped. Add squash; pulse until finely chopped. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
3. One by one, lightly wet edges of wonton wrappers with your finger, and add 1 heaping teaspoon of filling to the middle of each and pinch together to seal (don’t stress if they tear every now and again), placing them in a large oiled nonstick frying pan as you go.
4. Put the pan on high heat, then pour over 2/3 cup of water and cover. Let it steam until the water has completely evaporated. Uncover and allow to fry, removing as soon as the bottoms are golden and crisp.
5. For Dipping Sauce: Finely grate remaining ginger and combine with chili, minced green onion, sesame seeds, soy sauce and mustard. Stir to combine. Divide sauce between 4 bowls. Cut green stalks of green onions into thin slices. Serve dumplings garnished with sliced dark green onion stalks accompanied with the dipping sauce and a wedge of fresh lime.
Source: Adapted from “Jamie Oliver Ultimate Veg” by Jamie Oliver (Flatiron, $35)
Have a cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythomascooks@gmail.com
